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BIG ISLAND VOLCANOES - Volcanoes National Park

By Jeanette Foster


 

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Don’t leave the Big Island without seeing the “Greatest Show on Earth” - the erupting Kilauea volcano in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park - which has been putting on a spectacular live show of fiery molten lava red rivers since January 3, 1983.

The Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, an enchanted wonderland, which is the most visited natural site in the state, gives visitors a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see the results of 70 million years of fiery volcanoes, thousands of miles of ocean migration and ever-changing evolution on its 218,000 acres.

The park, which was established in 1916, encompasses diverse environments, ranging from the azure waters of the Pacific Ocean to the sun-baked, arid desert to the verdant ferns of the rain forest to the rarefied air of the summit of the earth’s most massive and still active volcano, Mauna Loa at 13,677 feet.

The “star” of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is Kilauea, the world’s most active volcano. Lava from the nearly 20-year eruption has covered 16,000 acres of lowland and rain forest, some areas are buried under 80 feet of black, taffy-like pahoehoe lava. At last count, the hissing, spitting lava flow had destroyed 200-plus homes and businesses, wiped out Kaimu Black Sand Beach (once one of Hawaii’s most photographed beaches) and Queen’s Bath.

That’s not all: entire towns and subdivisions have been obliterated (Kalapana, Royal Gardens, Kalapana Gardens and Kapaahu Homesteads). Natural and historic landmarks, like a 12th century heiau (Hawaiian temple), the century-old Kalapana Mauna Kea Church, the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park’s Wahaulu Visitor Center and thousands of archaeological artifacts and sites are buried forever.

Park rangers estimate the cost of destruction at more than $100 million, but then, how to price the destruction of a 700 year old temple or a 100-year old church?

According to the early Hawaiian legends, there once was a time when spiritual beings walked the earth. During that time Pele, the volcano goddess, traveled across the Pacific looking for a home for her fire and her family. She settled in the still-fuming crater of Halemaumau at the summit of Kilauea. So far Pele’s 20-year old continuous eruption has added more than 560 acres of new land to this already big island.



The volume of erupted lava over the nearly two decades measures nearly two billion cubic yards, enough new rock to pave a two-lane highway 1.2 million miles long, circling the earth some 50 times. Or, as a spokesperson for the park puts it: “Every five days, there is enough lava coming out of Kilauea volcano’s eruption to place a thin veneer over Washington D.C. - all 63 square miles.

The most recent eruption has come from Puu Oo, a 760-foot-high cinder-and-spatter cone. If you are lucky, and the flow is on or near the surface, you’ll be able to see the seven-mile-long snake-like path the ruby red lava takes during its journey to the sea. This lava flow has extended the Big Island’s shoreline seaward and added hundreds of acres of new land along the steep southern slopes (the so called “lava coastline”). Every once and awhile, the new land proves unstable, falls under its own weight and slides into the ocean.


 

Neither Mother Nature nor Madame Pele runs on a schedule (unlike Disneyland). The volcano could be shooting crimson fountains of firestorm lava hundreds of feet into the air on the day you arrive, or it could be completely quiet, flowing silently in deep subterranean lava tubes below the surface - there are no guarantees with nature.

On many days, the lava flows right by accessible roads and you can get as close as the heat and the Park Rangers will safely allow. However, at other times, the flow is miles away from the nearest access point, visible only in the distance or in underground tubes where you can’t see it.

If the lava is visible, don’t just see this spectacular event during the day, but return at night, about an hour before the sunset. This is an opportunity to see the work of Madame Pele in her glory. At night you can see red rivers run down the side of the volcano, like roads mapping out the path of creation, before they ultimately disappear into the waiting waves of the Pacific.

Plumes of smoke and crackling sounds emerge as Pele’s 2,500 degree fiery rivulets pour into the 78 degree waters of the ocean. You can see the lava still burning in the water, until finally the vast Pacific douses the fire only to return Pele’s creation back to the land in the form of a new black sand beach.

Before you go, check on where the lava is currently flowing by calling the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park’s 24-hour hot line, 985-6000, and Hawaii County’s road openings, by calling 961-8093.

Facts About Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Open: Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is open 24-hours a day, all year. The Kilauea Visitor Center is open daily 7:45am-5pm and the Jaggar Museum is open daily 8:30am-5pm.

Weather: The park is located at 4,000 feet, so be prepared for rain and temperatures ranging from 30 degrees to 75 degrees. The weather down at the ocean can be hot, dry and windy. The Park Rangers recommend you bring: rain gear, light sweater or jacket, sturdy shoes, hats, water bottles, sun glasses, and high UV factor sunscreen. For island weather, call 961-5582.

Entry Fee:
Cars are $10 for seven days (or $20 for the year); pedestrian $5 for seven days.

Camping and Lodging: Two campgrounds are available year round, call 985-6011 for information. The Volcano House, located in the park, is open all year, call 967-7321 for information. Additional lodging, inns and bed and breakfast accommodations are available in Volcano Village.

Contact: For the latest information on the volcano flow, access to the flow and general park information, call 985-6000 or www.nps.gov/havo.



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